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TURNERTOYS FLIGHT CENTRAL Competition Airplane Kits for Science Olympiad: Selecting the right model, supplies, & accessories; Design modifications Competition Airplanes Home Page New! Boomilever & Tower Supplies |
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We urge you to read the top section of this page before buying a kit or starting your project!
Rarely does a beginner get lucky when flying in
competitions. Like any other sport, training for experience will prepare you
to win. Plan ahead. The process of winning requires careful building, test
flights, adjustments and modifications.
1. Selection of a model: The Sorcerer is unchanged from 2005, but modification for 2008 Division C rules should be quite easy. The Sorcer has been used for a number of years to produce winning competition models, and is still (for the moment, anyway) only $32.95. The Sorcerer is in stock and ready to ship.
If you have never built a stick & tissue model before, or have not
allowed enough time for adjustment and testing, consider starting with the
Shoebox or Right Flyer, both of which are modifiable and are competitive at
the local and state level. You will gain experience which can be applied to
your next event, for which we recommend a Cruiser or Sorcerer. Make sure to
plan further ahead next time. Our Build-N-Fly and Ready-to-Fly models (specifically the G-75 Flying machine) are also strong fliers, and may be used by beginners to acquire experience in building and flying rubber-powered balsa models. Endurance flying modifications are not included in the directions, but a knowledge of simple aerodynamics allows some productive tinkering. They are not considered contest-winning designs (too heavy, among other things). Do the job right with the right
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Specific Product Modifications
RULE #1:
Delta Dart b)Stretch-wind rubber motor with a winder to achieve maximum number of winds. Use our #389 5 to 1 Motor Winder). c) Add Trim Tabs- Glue stiff paper tabs onto the trailing edges for wing ailerons, the fin's rudder, and stabilizer's elevator. d) Construct the wing with a reduced dihedral angle. Build and pin the center section down on your work board. Raise the wing tips up to 38mm (1.5") and glue the leading and trailing edge juncture points. When dry, attach to the fuselage top per the instructions. This lower dihedral is much more efficient for indoor flying. e) Change the motor hook. Instead of using a straight pin for attaching the rubber motor, use this idea. Bend half the straight pin (starting from the head) into a "c" shape with long-nosed pliers. Bend the other half so that it may be pushed up into the bottom of the fuselage. Wrap the pin and fuselage together and coat with glue. This makes a more secure attachment when using the longer motors. Adding a wedge so that the new C-pin is suspended even lower will minimize friction between the rubber motor and fuselage (during unwinding) for even better efficiency. Top Of Page a) Fly the model without the landing gear if the rules allow. This minimizes both excess mass and drag from the model. b) Use a winder for maximum winds on the rubber motor (see "b" under Delta Dart Modifications). c) Lower the wing loading: This is a ratio of the overall weight to wing area. The lower this ratio is, the more efficient the model becomes. Various modifications may be incorporated to accomplish a lower wing loading. Increase the wingspan and/or chord to create wings with more area. Be sure not to exceed the maximum wingspan (projected view) in your competition rules. An easy modification is to increase the span on the wing's center section and leave the wing tips in their stock format. Further variations include replacing the 1/16" strip ribs with cambered ribs cut from 1/16" sheet. The added airfoil allows the model to fly closer to a nose high, stall attitude without porpoising. This higher angle of attack will slow the prop and the model down for even longer flights. d) Extended fuselage: A good rule of thumb is that the fuselage should be at least 80% of the wingspan to achieve correct nose moment arm and tail moment arm dimensions. Adding a tail boom is the easiest and lightest way to increase the tail moment arm length. Use either a laminated boom made from two 1/16" x 1/8" balsa strips or a stiff piece of 1/8" balsa strip to lengthen the fuselage. Mount the boom on top of the fuselage beginning at the point where the leading edge of the fin would have been mounted. Attach the stabilizer, tissue up on top of the boom end with the fin on top. Leave the motor hook in the original location. e) Manufacture a higher, lighter pylon assembly for the wing. Design it so that it may be shifted fore and aft for changing the center of gravity. Two upright 3/32" stiff balsa strips connected to a "saddle" will minimize the effects of the propeller turbulence on the wing's lift. Use the small rubber bands for attaching the assembly to the fuselage. f) Shave and re-pitch the propeller for better performance. Refer to the Teaching Tips enclosed in the kit. Top Of Page
a) Convert to #379, Shoebox R.O.G. (.093" crossection) rubber motors for longer contest flights (see Delta Dart modifications "a" and "b"). b) Remove the Landing Gear if rules allow. c) Cover all the flying surfaces with craft tissue or even Japanese Tissue. Use a fresh glue stick for applying the tissue to these surfaces. Only cover the top surfaces. d) Increase the wingspan for more area. Possibly convert to tip dihedral or even a polyhedral design. e) Extend the fuselage much like the procedure for the Shoebox R.O.G. (see Shoebox modifications "d") f) Modify the wing pylon/ saddle (see Shoebox modifications "e") g) Shave the prop to reduce mass and make it flexible for re-pitching. Use a fresh X-acto #11 blade and shave the front, cambered surface until 1/3 of mass is removed. In doing so for both blades, the propeller may also be balanced. After freewheeling a balanced prop, it should stop with the blades
horizontal and not vertical. Re-pitch the prop for a longer motor run
and less climb. Twist the blades so that the leading edges have a higher
angle of attack.
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