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Building Balsa Kits (Guillows Build&Fly, Midwest Kits):
Do the job right
with the right
supplies and accessories
(all available on Turnertoys Flight Central).
Working with these supplies and tools requires practise, learning, and some ingenuity and improvising.
1. Work Surface: We suggest using an accurately flat, sufficiently large, soft balsa or pine board, clean, flat heavyweight corrugated boxboard, 2’ x 2’ ceiling tile, or dense insulation foam board as a construction surface for use with
Assembly Pins (see below). Cover work surface with wax paper to permit easy removal of finished assemblies.
2. Assembly Pins: Better than T-pins, easier to use. These make the job easier, produce better quality work. Two structure sides can be duplicated, one one top of the other with wax paper in between, for symmetric structure precision. Also provides light clamping pressure for setting glue joints at any angle. Use the pin shoulders to hold the work, or pin through a piece of scrap used to press the work to the workboard. Gentle side pressure can be applied to keep joints in place while drying, and cambered ribs can be held vertical with 1 or 2 pins on each side of the rib. Note: Use very light pressure on balsa parts and do not pin through balsa on Cruiser or Sorcerer models! Weighting the parts with 1/2" washers is the preferred method of Ray Harlan, designer of the Cruiser. We still think grip pins are better if correctly used.
3. Speed Winders are a necessity for competition, and makes flying easier
and more fun with all models. Use our Electric Winder or 5:1 crank
winder for Guillows & Midwest Build-&-Fly and Ready-to-Fly
motorplanes. The 5:1 crank winder will produce better results because you
can stretch-wind the motor, but it will not work with the Flyboy. ALWAYS COUNT THE NUMBER OF WINDS! The
electric winder is perfect for "just for fun" flying - most models
except Sorcerer & Cruiser.
4. Mylar Film
We now offer 1.4µ Mylar film in rolls 12.5” x 10’, enough for covering several models. It is superior to tissue in several ways. It is included with the Cruiser kits, and may be purchased separately for $11.50. We include updated instructions for use. Application takes some practice, but it is worth the effort.
5. Excel Brand single edge razor blades. Single edge blades are the choice of experienced modeler. Our blades are sharper than Xacto blades, more effective for most cuts, and make beautifully clean cuts if used skilfully. However, they are also more hazardous to handle, must be disposed of safely, and are not recommended for children younger than 12 years. We offer them in 10-packs for $2.50 with your order of other supplies - no additional freight charge. We will not ship them separately!
6. Ikara Propellers (used in the Harlan Cruiser Kits) are extremely light and easy to modify. They twist easily to change pitch angle, and can be reshaped with sharp scissors to change diameter and surface area.
The Ikara props sold at Turnertoys Flight Central are not the same as those sold
elsewhere: they are designed by Ray Harlan for optimum pitch and blade
configuration. They are recommended for the Sorcerer & Cruiser competition
models, and may not be useful for the Guillows Ready-to-Fly and
Build-&-Fly.
7. Care and selection of Rubber Motors:
Flight Central offers a variety of thicknesses of competition rubber string. For longest life and maximum performance, lubricate the rubber motors with Armorall, Formula 2001, or Son-Of-A-Gun (automotive supply or hardware store). Store motors in marked Zip-Lock Bags. Use Speedwinders for proper stretch-winding (directions in model kit package), and always count winds.
For Competition Flying: Selection of a motor, and determination of length, is dependent in part on
the desired altitude and the prop pitch angle. Select motor acording to weight specs and energy requirements, model weight and room dimensions, among other things. See individual product page or accessory page for motor recommendations (online at Flight Central).
You need enough torque to get the plane up
in a steady, gradual climb. The torque curve at that height should yield just enough to start the plane flying level, after which it descends under power. Also, the greater the prop pitch angle, the more torque you need.
A thinner rubber gets more winds and a shallow prop pitch, spins faster. A thinner rubber may not provide the power needed for climbing. Experiment! There is no straightforward formula for calculating this. Another variable is number of winds. Yes, we sell replacement motors.
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8. Adhesives:
Ambroid Cement is the choice of many experts. It is very forgiving,
has some flexibility, and can be removed from an incorrectly built joint with acetone. Apply sparingly with toothpick or balsa sliver. Where weight is critical, do not follow tube directions; apply to one part only. Where strength is more important, apply to both parts, rub into wood and remove excess, allow to dry a few minutes, then reapply to one part and mate surfaces. Hold in place until dry with gentle pressure with pins. (Ambroid is similar to Duco Cement, the old standby, at hardware or hobby stores.) Ambroid Cement is available online at Flight Central’s
Model Supplies Page.
Potential Negatives: Contains VOC's (volatile organic compounds) which may create an inhalation hazard. Use with adequate ventilation. Also hardens by drying, rather than curing, so open tube may harden up before it has been completely used. Do not pour working supply into dish or cup.
We also recommend a water-based glue such as Elmer's Professional Carpenters Glue or Titebond II, which can be cleaned up (before they set - approximately 20 minutes) with water, and afterwards, with some difficulty, with hot water. A properly established joint using them is very strong, and has a very slight flexibility. They have only fair initial tack strength, unless heavy clamping pressure is used (not possible with these delicate materials). NOTE: Grip Pins allow some clamping pressure to be applied either vertically or laterally at almost any angle. These glues are minimally toxic and are almost completely free of VOC's. Pour a little into a disposable cup, apply sparingly with toothpick or stick of balsa.
Potential Negatives: They work best when contact between wood pieces is precise and intimate, and some pressure can be maintained until they set (use pins). They do not hold as well on end-grain as they do on side or face grain. They are only slightly thixotropic, i.e., a large drop of this kind of glue on a vertical surface will run a little. Assemblies must be allowed to set at least one hour before being moved.
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